Spring is sprung, The grass is riz, Wonder when The last freeze is…..
MAY 2013 FRUIT TREE CARE AND GARDENING NEWSLETTER
Talks, codling moths, other pests, plant sales and more!
I will be giving a talk on Selecting and Growing Fruit Trees in Northern Nevada at the Grow Your Own Series. Get more info, go to:
I have one fruit tree left for sale; if you would like a Jerseycot apricot on Krymsk 1 rootstock, email me.
Other trees for sale include the ones remaining from the Loping Coyote tree sale last weekend. They have some great deals on fruit trees, grapes, cold hardy kiwis and many other trees/shrubs. Contact Neil Bertrando firstname.lastname@example.org to order; the list of available plants is at the end of this newsletter.
The annual Master Gardener Plant Faire Extravaganza will be held from 7am to 2 pm, May 18 (Saturday) at Greenhouse #13, 920 Valley Road, Reno, NV, 89512. You’ll need to google the address and follow the signs; the greenhouse is behind the Agriculture Education building on Valley Road. Email Wendy Hansen-Mazet for info including the plant list: hansonw@UNCE.unr.edu
Rancho San Rafael’s plant sale is Saturday, June 1, from 8 am to 12 noon; the plants are natives and ornamentals suitable for growing in the Reno area. For more information, go to :http://www.washoecounty.us/parks/arboretum/events.html
Fallon, home of the Hearts of Gold cantaloupe, has several farms with websites including:
- Sweet Farms (great grapes) http://www.sweetfarmfallon.com/ and
- Lattin Farms (great everything that grows) http://www.lattinfarms.com/
You can get on their mailing lists for updates and availability of fruit and vegetables.
For other local and area producers of fruit, vegetables, honey, beef, eggs, and more, check out the Nevada Grown website at: www.nevadagrown.com .
Codling moths are the most damaging pest of apples and pears. The unseasonable spring weather will result in an early hatch. I reached biofix on April 28 at our house in the old southwest in Reno; as a reference, I haven’t put the trap out in Paradise Valley as nothing has yet bloomed. So, put out your traps when your trees start to bloom.
For complete info on codling moth CTRL+ click http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7412.html.
Do take a look at their discussion and link on ‘Bagging Fruit’. I did bag several hundred apples in past years with mixed results; some of the apples already had codling moth eggs laid and/or hatched when I put on the bags. So, if you plan to bag the apples, I suggest thinning, first (and only) spray, then bagging the fruit. The cheapest and easiest bags to affix were the cheap ‘zip-lock’ sandwich bags.
Thinning is an important step in producing larger, tastier fruit and will also help prevent damage from insects. Cherry trees do not need to be thinned; apples, pears, apricots, plums, peaches, and nectarines will benefit from thinning.
Fruit should be thinned when the fruit is ¼ to ½ inch in diameter; after the fruit is an inch in diameter, it is too late to improve fruit quality by thinning. To thin, first lightly run your fingers over the fruit; a good number of the fruits will fall off as some fruits were not completely fertilized or the tree is selectively pruning itself. Then, remove any damaged/deformed fruits. Note that apples and pears form on clusters with the center fruit larger than the rest; those are the ones I leave on the tree.
This year, I’m thinning apples and pears to 12” apart per limb; peaches and nectarines 8” apart and plums and apricots 6” apart. The object is to leave as much fruit as possible, but remove enough so that the remaining fruits will not touch when mature (insect larvae tend to bore into fruit where they touch).
Sevin, an insecticide, can be used on fruit trees to thin apples. Read the label instructions! The amount of thinning varies between varieties, age of tree, and is not exact; the label instructions give a range of dilution to use. If you have a large, old apple tree and want to try thinning with sevin, I’d start out with 1/3 to ½ the recommended range on the packet and adjust each year until you get the desired effect.
If you have need of a pest control person, try Norris Environmental Services: http://www.norrisenvsol.com. They are knowledgeable and have served the Reno/Sparks area for many years.
Other pests and diseases seen in May include aphids, powdery mildew, and root weevils. Look at the growth tips of the limbs for the dull gray coating that is powdery mildew. Generally, only one or two limbs will have it on new growth. Prune off the infected portion back to a branch or bud, dispose of the affected sprouts, and spray a disinfectant (like Lysol) on your pruning tools afterward.
Aphid damage will also occur on new growth and will appear as curled, deformed leaves especially on peaches, nectarines, and cherries. If only one or two places are infected, just squash the little bugs. If the whole tree is infected, it will be too late for dormant oil, but attach a spray nozzle to your water hose and spray water into the affected limbs from all sides. Aphids do not like humidity and the force of the spray will knock the aphids off and onto the ground. Being fat boys (actually all females) with skinny legs, the aphids will not be able to get back into the tree. Spray the tree daily, if possible in the morning, as the aphids knocked off the tree will slowly cook in the noonday sun.
Root Weevils are a pest that eats the edges of leaves resulting in a serrated leaf edge. They attack many landscape plants including peonies, lilacs, and many others; I use the lilies of the valley as my indicator plant. Root weevils come out at night and live and hide under rocks, rock walls, and wood retaining walls. Complete info, photos, and controls can be found at http://anrcatalog.ucdavis.edu/pdf/8131.pdf
I planted my tomatoes and okra Sunday; no, I haven’t gone crazy(ier). I am cheating and putting mine under a 4 ft high 3 ft wide hoop house (or hoop tent). Walls of water will also allow earlier planting. The folk lore tale about planting when the snow is off Peavine, is correct…if it is also Memorial Day weekend and the 10 day forecast doesn’t include a frost/freeze early in June. Or take the risk, the nurseries will have replacements; help stimulate the economy and support the horticulture industry. Beans, squash, cukes, and most other summer vegetable seeds can be planted about a week or so before Memorial Day.